Q&A with Dr. Timm Golueke

Q&A with Dr. Timm Golueke

Skin care is a complex issue - that's why dermatologist and Royal Fern founder Dr. Timm Golueke is committed to answering two of your beauty questions, every month.

Simply mail us your question – or even multiple questions – using the contact form below, or send us a personal message via Instagram. If you have an urgent question or would like a personal consultation, we recommend you use our free Email consultation service.

Please note: Our e-mail consultation provides sound product recommendations, but it does not represent a remote medical treatment. If you have any health issues, please contact a doctor immediately. After your recovery, you can then approach considerate skincare again.

Questions & Answers

April 2020

No 1

Q: 

Nobody sees us in our home office and we finaly have time to integrate a few spa rituals into our everyday life. How can #spaathome work?

A:

The morning ritual should be just like leaving the house to go to work: shower, apply lotion, do your hair and put on some nice clothes. We then use the time that we would normally have to commute to work for an extra portion of care. This could be a weekly peeling or a mask, unless you have a video conference call. The „Royal Fern Intense Mask“, for example, contains moisturising, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as chlorophyll and fern extracts that help with dry and irritated skin caused by being at home all day.

April 2020

No 2

Q: 

And how do you personally keep yourself fit and healthy during the curfew? 

A:

I maintain my routines. Instead of going to the gym in the morning as I usually do, I train at home with the Freelatics fitness app. I only eat when I am hungry and only at times when I have always eaten. I only go grocery shopping twice a week to limit the number of trips to the supermarket. This way I protect the people at the checkout and myself. What is important right now is a balanced diet that strengthens the immune system. I have fresh produce on my menu that contain a lot of polyphenol, which protects the cells from free radicals: Edamame, sprouts and salad are always on my shopping list. Tomatoes are also valuable, their secondary plant substance Lypocin is responsible for a sufficient supply of vitamin C and healthy skin. My tip: steam the tomatos briefly, this way the body absorbs the active ingredients four times better. In the evening I take time for my social contacts and call friends via Facetime.

March 2020

No 1

Q: 

spring skiing is very popular. Skiers often get a severe sunburn at this time of year ...

A:

... the main reason is, you think the sun is not yet powerful. Big mistake. The ozone layer is thinner at altitudes and lets the sun's rays pass almost unfiltered. In addition, the skin lacks the so-called light callosity, the natural tanning protection. Thus sun protection with sun protection factor 50 is indispensable. In the evening you can the skin with ROYAL FERN "Phytoactive Anti-Oxidative Ampoules", which contain highly concentrated anti-oxidative fern extract, grape seed extract and vitamin C. The ampoules can minimise damage and also provide moisture.

March 2020

No 2

Q: 

May one use an essence that works with fruit acids on a daily basis?

A:

Normally, care should be taken with products containing fruit acids because the skin can be irritated. However, if they are enriched with anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant active ingredients, they are well tolerated by all skin types, even when used daily.

february 2020

No 1

Q: 

What exactly is an essence, what are the main properties of an Essence and how do you apply it?

A:

An essence is - in contrast to a toner which contains no active ingredients - a treatment product which is used as the first treatment step in the daily beauty regime after the facial cleansing. The essence is not washed off, it remains on the skin.

Royal Fern's "Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence", for example, minimises pores by adding fruit acids such as lactic acid, malic acid and gluconolactone, but also has a light peeling effect and prevents pigmentation spots. On the other hand it has an anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative effect due to the fern extract. 

Apply the Essence either with a cotton pad or - and this is much more sustainable and environmentally friendly - by hand. Put on a small amount to the palm of your hand and gently pat into the skin.

february 2020

No 2

Q: 

How do the redness and burst veins develop and how do you get rid of them?  

A:

Extreme cold can lead to skin symptoms similar to burns. Anything that promotes blood circulation also contributes to a changed skin appearance: excessive consumption of coffee, tea, alcohol and spicy foods are among them. Those who have a genetic predisposition to rosacea or couperose will notice an increase in symptoms. In case of redness and burst veins, it is important to discuss with the dermatologist a type-appropriate care. ROYAL FERN Phytoactive Anti-Aging Cream has proven to be very effective. It works with the anti-inflammatory healing power of the fern. Used permanently, it can considerably reduce the appearance of redness.

January 2020

No 1

Q: 

I used Royal Fern Phytoactive Anti-Aging Cream throughout the summer and was very happy with the results, but now that it's getting colder, I feel like it's not doing enough for my skin. Could this be? 

A:

Yes, it could very well be. Plenty of people need to change their skincare products in winter. Cold temperatures and indoor heating draw moisture from the skin, causing it to dry out more intensively. The skin also produces fewer lipids in winter than in summer, so it has less protection against moisture loss. A more moisture-rich care will help counteract these factors.

Here are my recommendations

If you wish to continue using your usual cream, supplement it with a moisturizing serum, for example, Royal Fern Phytoactive Serum containing hyaluronic acid.

Alternatively, use a more moisture-rich cream, such as Royal Fern Phytoactive Anti-Aging Rich Cream.

And your approach is absolutely correct: simply pay attention to your skin and you’ll develop an excellent feel for when you’ve found the optimum balance of care, appropriate to the season.

January 2020

No 2

Q: 

Do Royal Fern products contain parabens? And what are the issues around parabens?

A:

Parabens have been used as preservatives for decades. In principle, preservatives are very important ingredients, however, it has been demonstrated that parabens frequently cause allergies; thus, I advise against using products which contain them. Not because parabens are dangerous or you have to be afraid of them, but to avoid the unnecessary risk of triggering allergies.

Fortunately, there are more modern, gentler preservatives available these days – these are what I have chosen to use in the Royal Fern formulas.

2019

December 2019

No 1

Q: 

What’s the difference between a patented active ingredient and one that has a “patent pending”? Or are they the same?

A:

No, these are not the same.
 
In theory, one can register any active ingredient for a patent, even it’s not unique or worth protecting in this way. Only after the initial registration and a further application does the German Patent and Trade Mark Office check whether the substance in question is patentable – and only if this test is positive, is a patent is granted. This process usually takes 3 to 4 years.  The distinction between these categories is particularly observable in the figures published by the German Patent and Trademark Office: in 2018, around 68,000 patents were filed, around 47,000 applications for examination were received and roughly 16,400 patents were granted.

Source: The German Patent and Trade Mark Office

 

December 2019

No 2

Q: 

I’m currently stretched to the limit in both my professional and private life. I have virtually no time for skin care and, frankly, I don’t really feel up to it either. My question is:

What is the absolute minimum I should motivate myself to do, no matter what?

A:

Nightly cleansing. This removes any sebum deposits, make-up, and harmful environmental pollutants that have settled on your skin during the course of the day. 

Fine dust in particular is now considered to be at least as harmful to the skin as UV rays. These tiny particles, by-products of pollution, settle in the pores and form free radicals, which accelerate the breakdown of collagen, thereby increasing the formation of wrinkles. The term "urban pollution" is on everyone’s lips these days, as awareness grows of its negative impact. 
Unfortunately, even outside of large cities, there are many sources of fine dust and other kinds of air pollution that are harmful to the skin. These include agriculture, industry, car exhaust, incineration plants, open fireplaces, and even the natural erosion of rock.  

Thus, cleansing in the evenings is really the single most important skincare step, in my opinion – regardless of your age, place of residence or skin type. If you can only do one thing for your skin each day, then please do this.

 

November 2019

No 1

Q: 

Do Royal Fern creams contain sunscreen? And if so, what level of protection do they have?

A:

No, Royal Fern creams do not contain sunscreen. If you wish to sunbathe or use sunscreen daily, please use a separate sunscreen.  When purchasing your sunscreen, make sure it protects your skin from both UVA and UVB rays. I always recommend that my patients use high quality pharmacy products, so this is what I advise you to do as well – and please use the highest possible protection factor. 

November 2019

No 2

Q: 

I'm under 30, does it make sense for me to start using intensive skincare products already? If so, which would you recommend? 

A:

If you have healthy skin and look after it according to your needs, I don’t think you need to start using intensive skincare products yet.  

I would merely advise you to use a high quality eye cream because the skin around the eye area is so delicate and thin that wrinkles appear here first. Also, nightly cleansing is indispensable at any age. It’s the absolute foundation of skin care: not only removing sebum deposits and make-up residue, but fine dust and other environmental pollutants as well, which, if left on the skin for longer periods, promote collagen breakdown, accelerating the aging process.  

And of course: if you enjoy elaborate skincare rituals, you can certainly continue to treat yourself to these – just be sure you pay attention to any signals from your skin that it’s too much.

October 2019

No 1

Q: 

The pores around my nose are quite large – is there any way to make them smaller?

A:

Pores essentially function as the outlets of the sebaceous glands. Their size is genetically determined and, therefore, can be as little influenced as your eye color. That said, sebum deposits or dead skin cells can clog the pores, causing them to widen and enlarge – and the good news is that you can very effectively influence the appearance of pores that have become enlarged in this way. Use a targeted exfoliation product, such as Royal Fern’s Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence, which peels gently and thoroughly, penetrating the pores and removing dead skin cells: this will allow enlarged pores to regain their genetically determined shape.  

Royal Fern Phytoactive Skin Perfecting Essence refines the whole complexion, reducing the appearance of pores.

October 2019

No 2

Q: 

I’m currently stretched to the limit in both my professional and private life. I have virtually no time for skin care and, frankly, I don’t really feel up to it either. My question is:

What is the absolute minimum I should motivate myself to do, no matter what? 

A:

Nightly cleansing. This removes any sebum deposits, make-up, and harmful environmental pollutants that have settled on your skin during the course of the day. 

Fine dust in particular is now considered to be at least as harmful to the skin as UV rays. These tiny particles, by-products of pollution, settle in the pores and form free radicals, which accelerate the breakdown of collagen, thereby increasing the formation of wrinkles. The term "urban pollution" is on everyone’s lips these days, as awareness grows of its negative impact. 

SepteMber 2019

No 1

Q:
IS ROYAL FERN A CERTIFIED NATURAL COSMETICS LINE?

A:

No, Royal Fern is not a certified natural cosmetics line because natural cosmetics are subject to regulations that, in my opinion, exclude very useful, tried and tested ingredients. For example, our preferred liposome technology could not be implemented in a manner that conforms to the standards for natural cosmetics.

In creating the Royal Fern cosmetics line, I’ve decisively embraced the remarkable powers of nature, which are united in the Royal Fern Complex, a blend of mineral oxide and botanical ingredients that work together synergistically. As is often the case in natural cosmetics, the whole that arises from the fusion of ingredients is even greater than the benefits of its individual components – this is certainly true of Royal Fern.

Many prized herbal ingredients are used in Royal Fern products: macadamia nut oil, wild rose oil, and jojoba oil, to name a few. Moreover, the vitamin C we use is not synthetically produced, but derived from acerola cherries.

Ethical standards are also of tremendous importance to me – for example, in developing Royal Fern no animal experiments have been or will ever be carried out.

All in all, in developing Royal Fern, I resolved to combine the best of both worlds: the power of nature and the advancements of modern dermatology. I also follow this principle when caring for my own skin.

September 2019

No 2

Q:

WHAT ARE THE THREE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS I CAN DO FOR MY SKIN?

A:

In a nutshell: plenty of sleep, a healthy diet and using skincare products that offer cellular protection.

These three measures work together to increase your skin’s natural regeneration and defense capabilities. During sleep, the skin has the opportunity to replenish itself and restore its damaged defense mechanisms.

A healthy diet supplies the skin with antioxidants, flavonoids and other substances that provide cellular protection, thereby strengthening the skin from within.

Using a product which boosts cellular defense supplements this protection from the outside, so to speak – again, thanks to the use of antioxidants, and other ingredients. Ideally, active ingredients should be released gradually to ensure the longest possible protection.

I would like to add a fourth element of care: cleansing the skin in the morning and evening. In doing so, you remove environmental residues along with the skin’s own metabolic wastes, both of which your skin otherwise has to work to combat.

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